The “Jewish” Apple:  Eggplant Carpaccio

June 1, 2010

By the 16^th century, the eggplant had made its way to Spain, then Germany and Italy. In the 17^th century, it showed up in Brazil, and 150 years later, President Thomas Jefferson introduced it to the United States. In the mid-19^th century, a French nurseryman on his way to Australia brought along some seeds he picked up in India. Today, the eggplant is grown all over the world in a wide array of shapes, sizes, and colors. It is an outstanding edible landscape plant and is considered a culinary delight by millions. But it has not always been so…

Although the Spanish and the Italians believed the eggplant to be a powerful aphrodisiac—calling it the “love apple” and holding it in great regard—others in Europe did not share their enthusiasm. Since it is a member of the nightshade family (which can be toxic to humans), many were afraid of it. Like its cousin the tomato, which was considered poisonous, the eggplant fell victim to a great deal of superstition and was believed to induce insanity. It became known as the “mad apple.”

But it was among the Jewish people of Europe that the eggplant became a staple food, absorbing the flavor of the spices in which it was cooked and replacing meat on many a kosher table. Because Jewish cooks used it in so many dishes, it took on another name: the “Jewish apple.” The Inquisitors in Spain asked maids if their employers frequently requested eggplant, using the answer to judge whether or not the family in question was actually Jewish.  Following the War of Independence in 1948, the eggplant continued to find a welcome home among the Jewish people, but this time in Israel. During the country’s early years, meat was scarce and many other foods were rationed. The easily obtained, versatile eggplant became a favorite for salads and vegetable dishes and a substitute for meat. Today, practically no meal in the Land is complete without at least one eggplant salad, and the following recipe is one of my personal favorites.

Eggplant Carpaccio

4 medium eggplants
4 tbsp top quality raw tahini
4 tbsp goat milk yogurt
4 tomatoes, halved
4 tsp silan (date honey) or 3 tsp honey
4 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
8 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 small bunch of fresh hyssop or oregano leaves
1 tsp crushed garlic
1 tsp chopped hot green pepper
Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Roast the eggplants, cool slightly, and cut open. Place the eggplants in the center of four plates and flatten slightly with a fork. Pour small puddles of tahini, yogurt, silan (or honey), olive oil, and lemon juice over the eggplant. Spoon out the contents of one tomato over each eggplant. Season with salt, pepper, garlic and hot pepper. Garnish with hyssop or oregano leaves and serve immediately.

Source: From The Book of New Israeli Food by Janna Gur